Chicago: Girl and The Goat

GIRL AND THE GOAT

Stephanie Izard has been on my list of brilliant female chefs for a long time now. I love her demeanor, her presence, her comedy, the whole shebang. She’s got it and now I just love her even more. As female chefs times are a little hard but it’s always nice to see people doing what they love, making their way in a battle field of male donated industry. This girl is kicking some serious chef butt, guy or girl for that matter. I really love the style of Girl and The Goat and I’m so thrilled that I spent almost the latter or 4 1/2 hours there. 2 1/2 was waiting for a table because I couldn’t make reservations in time for my trip.

Stepping into Girl and the Goat is like a little piece of contemporary art museum and local eatery in one. The decor is dark and mystic and the food is wild and imaginative. But most of all, the kitchen is an amazing sight to see. Lining the whole back wall of the restaurant is a giant open kitchen fenced in by a towering Lattice of shelving containing plates and utensils to the ceiling. The orange glow of a wood burning oven, and the slight mist of smokey hot food wafting through the dining room, the dance of 15 chefs on one hot line is a magical place for any foodie or chef to see. Dancing in harmony these are people not to be reckoned with, they produce some of the towns best, most flavorful, interesting ideas I’ve been witness to.

Steps from the outskirt of Chicago’s West Loop lies Girl and the Goat 809 W Randolph St, Chicago IL, 60607, the streets surrounding are lined with some of Chicago’s best eateries a competitive battle ground for any chef. There in the mists of Blackbird, The Publican, Avec (all places I plan on eating at sometime) Girl and the Goat still makes its presence known.

As I said this place is booked up about a month out and by the time I was able to make reservations there was still no space for me. So I braved it without one and I’m very glad I did. Though waiting took about 2 1/2 hours to even sit at the bar, which was partially my fault because I wasn’t acting like a hawk like some of the people at the bar where I had drinks and was dizzy looking at all the amazing things coming out of the kitchen. Stephanie was at the restaurant that night so it was a very nice touch to see her diligently at work. I started of course with Cocktails I ordered the best of three. The best of three is a mixture of gray goose vodka, pimms liquor, a bit of bitters, mint and cucumber all mixed together with lots of ice for a very fresh tasting not too sweet style beverage. The bartenders were “get to the point” girls which I liked but which is also why I wanted to wait for a table. I know if I was bartending I would want people do be eating drinking as much as possible. During my little adventure I was able to score a free drink from a couple I let have two seats that were next to each other I felt bad that I was going to take one and someone else would probably take the other so I let them sit down. Good manners are rewarded folks. Then I got to chatting with a couple of cool ladies one from the area and the other from new port beach for that matter which is in CA. Do I have California written all over me? Must be anyway they were sweet ladies gave me some good tips for eating and actually took my space at the bar cause they couldn’t hear themselves in the dining room. The atmosphere there is very lively, extremely loud people all eating and having a great time with no pretentious fancy feel to it the communal tables and lounge style seating at the front of the bar kind of set the tone.

At the Bar I had two dishes while I waited for my seat at the kitchen counter.

I ordered the very popular roasted Cauliflower which was chard brown from just the right amount of roasting, and topped with picked pepper, pine nuts, mint, and parmesan cheese and I’ll tell you that it couldn’t have been easier but it was tasty! The combination of sweet from roasting the cauliflower, salt from the cheese and pine nuts, vinegar from peppers and the freshness of mint is a culinary jack pot Easy make it at home I promise you’ll love it.

I also had more oysters, my culinary love affair. These were shibumi oysters with radish mignonette. I loved how tiny the radish brunoise was it was flavored with sherry and tarragon. The oysters were subtle refreshing and a little smoky.

After the oysters I was informed that the kitchen counter was open for seating so I took my place to watch a bit of magic happen.

As I situated myself, the chef has sent over a beautiful hiramasa Curdo with crispy pork belly and aji chili. Along with that there was this lovely tart caper aioli micro greens and these wonderful crispy over the top. Texturally this is really wonderfully conceived for the pallet. The lay of crispy salted pork belly with its fatty crunch and the lean clean brilliance of hiramasa is just the surface layer of flavors in this dish. The combination of aioli and use of pepper elevates something simple to a divine experience. If you want to learn about Hiramasa a sustainable yellowtail amberjack

Next my very favorite dish of the night. Girl and the goat is known for its use of goat meat in the restaurant that is locally and sustainably raised from farmers that work in close ties with the restaurant. Goat is brought to Girl and to Goat by Kilgus Farm, Love it… I ordered the Confit Goat Belly with shaved fennel, and lobster and crab butter. Rich luxury on a plate. The subtle gaminess of the goat with its very crunchy and contrasting melt in your mouth textures was amazing. The combination of fresh fennel lightly dressed and the lobster pieces of crab pieces sopping in more melted fat is ingenious.

I finally finished with a couple of samples from the amazing people behind the counter on Garde Manger( I hope I got the names right!I’m terrible with names I’m sorry!) Rachel, Gabe, and Dustin rocked the whole night and shared their war stories and happiness with me as I chatted and took in the deliciousness of this food. A tight group of chefs these line cooks make 300 covers look like a walk in the park. On busy week days they’ll hit 400 covered busy weekends over 600 that’s a lot of food. By heart and soul and a pretty awesome chef these guys win each day. Stephanie came by and had a little chat with me which was awesome, she’s friendly, funny, and down to earth.

I also sampled a really beautiful Salmon Tatar atop homemade wheat thins with saved zucchini, summer truffle and truffle oil and aside it was a beautiful lightly battered tempura zucchini blossom. I sampled also a small bowl of the kohlrabi salad. Kohlrabi is to me very close in flavor and texture to broccoli stems its said to be between cabbage and turnips as well. This kohlrabi was shaved very thin and in a salad of mixed greens blueberries, fennel. Evalon which is goat’s milk cheese that is very mild and unique flavor there was also hints of ginger dressing and crunch from toasted almonds. And lastly I had a roasted beet salad with wonderfully sliced on the bias gorgeous green beans with roasted beets, white anchovies which I love and an avocado crème fraiche the whole salad was just gorgeous and of course the best way to eat it is to mix the whole thing together, just a really wonderful fresh group of flavors and textures.

Bu the time I finished my night food coma was the least of my worries and getting back to Lincoln Park was on the priority list but I have to say this meal will live on in my memory forever. A beautiful atmosphere incorporating life, food, art, music, community and flavor.

I’m full just thinking about it all, but something really important happened for me sitting at an open kitchen talking with chefs like I used to do but opposite in my old restaurant made me more restaurant sick than I’ve been in a very long time, there’s something about that magic and I know one day, I’ll be back with elegant vengeance on my side.

I took home more than a full stomach that night.

Thank you everyone at Girl and The Goat, you  made Chicago just that much better.

Unrivaledkitch